Canyon Walls – Halloween Special

“Life Elevated” read the sign. Welcome to Utah. We drove on. An ebullient mood filled the car as the red desert, speckled with muted green sage brush, flew past the window. The southwest felt like freedom, even to, or perhaps especially to, two 20 something college kids on a road trip.

I eased my car from the freeway and we cruised past the muddy brown waters of the Colorado River, cutting its way between the red sand stone cliffs.  Driving until, after a time we set up camp at a little backcountry spot I knew, just outside the town of Moab – a small southwest tourist town slug between low bluffs, barely making an indent in the oppressive blue sky.

It was a weeknight and we were miles from the closest people, but had everything we needed. Campfire, great company, and a few beers to round out the night.

We drank and relaxed in the way that only those who have shared the traumas of public high school can. Stories wound into the night on the tails of embers. Soon it was late, we doused our fire and crawled into the tent. The sky was brilliantly clear, and the only sounds for miles was the wind softly whispering through the skeletal trees of the desert. Laying awake I heard, in the distance, a sound unlike anything I’d ever heard before. It was so perplexing that even years later I’m afraid that I continue to fail in my endeavor to describe it accurately.

The sound drifted through the canyon walls, it’s source obscured by echo and reverberation. A low, rumbling, metallic, howl drifted through the camp. Then – silence.

Assuming it was a one-off I tried to roll over and fall asleep as my friend already had. But then again, came the sound. It sounded alive, and like whatever was making the sound was in pain. Laboriously droning out it’s final death gasps to the heavens.

My friend, partially roused by the noise, rolled over in her sleeping bag and mumbled “they’re killing it” before she drifted easily back to sleep.

I’m sure it’s gratuitous to say that this didn’t help my anxiety.

For hours I lay awake, too scared to leave the imagined safety of our tent. Too scared to sleep. The sound came again and again, rumbling up through the canyons, across the lonely desert and into my terrified ears. A belabored, struggling, noise, that interposed a sense of foreboding into the stars and wind. The shadows outside our tent were abruptly filled with childhood monsters – born from the unknown and given form within my frightened and drunken brain

For hours I sat listening to the noise – I could tell it wasn’t getting closer, and in the early morning stillness the sound suddenly stopped. My ears, my body strained with the effort of listening, slouched forward in my sleeping bag, I finally had to accept that the howl had ceased.

The next morning as the sun rose to blazing intensity in the clear sky we hiked into the canyon, towards the source of the noise. Buoyed into curiosity by the light of day. What we ultimately found was: nothing. No people camped further in, no wounded animals, no industrial machinery. The only thing out there was miles of red desert snaking between canyon walls and sandstone monoliths.

Whatever had made the disquieting sounds clearly didn’t feel the need to stick around until sunrise.

Today, after all those years, that sound has found a place, deep within my memories, where I can still hear it floating over the dusty red earth. But I’m no closer to understanding it’s source, and – I accept – that I likely never will.

7 Stupid Questions to Stop Asking The Female Hikers and Backpackers In Your Life

This is me being tired of dumb questions.

I get it, stupid questions are part of the human experience, whether it be from people who are too lazy to google something for themselves, or perhaps they prefer to roll the verbal dice and choose not to think about what they’re saying before it pops out of their mouth. After all, we could all use a little more surprise in our life. What better way to accomplish that than by saying the first thing that comes to mind?

But seriously, if you spend any time in the outdoors, I’m going to bet you’ve been asked these questions before. Maybe from your well-meaning grandma who genuinely has no idea what backpacking even means. Or perhaps, the ever insidious Creepy Guy at a Gas Station who likes to “tell you how it is” despite never having been more than 10 miles from where he’s standing right now. Add to that the radical act of simply being a woman in this world, and I can all but guarantee you’ve been stopped either on the trail, or by someone in your daily life and confronted about the how, what, and why of your chosen hobby.

Below you’ll find the 7 most groan-inducing questions that the lady backpackers and hikers in your life are supremely tired of hearing.

1 – Are you doing this because of that movie Wild?

At the writing of this article, I’m pretty certain that everybody and their mom has seen Wild. And if you saw Wild and it inspired you to get outside and explore, or turn to nature as a means of healing, then I am by no means throwing shade. You do you, Boo.

This question is infuriating because it insinuates that we never would have gone outside if we hadn’t seen a movie about it first.

I find that most people who ask this question are trying to grasp the tiny sliver of information that they have associated with women hiking as a means to connect. When viewed against the scores of movies that feature men going out and tackling adventure, Wild stands very much alone against a backdrop of white able-bodied men. However, I have never met a woman who started hiking because she read or watched Wild. 

2 – You’re going out there by yourself?

Why yes, yes I am. This question falls into the “I don’t believe it’s safe for a woman to travel alone” lie that we’ve all been told by society. And if you’re really worried about my safety, then maybe start speaking up against a society in which men are told that hurting women is ok. Start speaking up about rape culture, slut shaming, and start asking why men are so broken internally that they feel the need to harm women, girls, and young boys. Here, this TED Talk is a good place to start:



3 – Do you carry a gun?

What? Jesus, no! I do not now, nor have I ever carried a gun, a giant knife, pepper spray, or another form of protection. Only once in a very specific situation I carried bear spray, and the insinuation that I need protection while traveling in nature is a tad disturbing.

The biggest reason for this is that I’m not planning on shooting wild animals. Why? Because they’re not very likely to attack me. The second reason is that in the backcountry I’m relatively safe from other people. Real talk, the biggest danger in my daily life are regular people. And beyond the obvious logic of it all, not all National Parks and protected Wilderness areas allow guns, either for carry or for hunting.

While I personally do not carry a weapon on me, some women elect to. That’s their right. Still, don’t go around asking people this.

4 – Aren’t you too old/young/brown/small/female/fat/weak to handle backpacking or hiking?

This is a terribly rude and offensive thing to ask someone. What the fuck are you thinking?

This question translates to: you don’t look like the kind of person I expect to be in the outdoors, so I’m going to tell you that you don’t fit into the stereotype of “outdoorsy people” I’ve built in my mind.

Fuck these people, nature is for everybody. If somebody asks you this, kick them in the shins and walk away. You don’t need those people in your life.

5 – Are your parents ok with this? What about your boyfriend/husband/SO?

This question is belittling and insulting on a number of levels, to which I’ve created a small script you can recite to the next person who asks you this:
“I am an independent adult woman, which means that I am not the property of, nor beholden to, anyone else. What I choose to do with my time is not subject to the approval of my parents or partner.” Enough said. And if they protest, then kick them in the shins and walk away. You don’t need these people in your life either.

6 – What about bears?

What about them?  Have I seen bears? Yes. Normally I see their big furry butts as they’re running away from me. Because humans are freaky scary creatures with a habit of killing bears and encroaching into their territories in noisy ways. Bears are scared of you, and any bear that isn’t has been removed from the North American gene pool years ago.

What this question means in reality is “I’ve heard about bear attacks and I’m scared and you should be scared too, and if you’re not your dumb.” Typically this question comes from people who are both afraid and deeply uniformed about bears in North America. We call this ignorance.

In the last 20 years there have been 25 fatal black bear attacks in North America, the majority of which have taken place in Canada and Alaska. This works out to about 1.25 attacks each year. Compared to the number of people going backpacking or hiking this works out to a .00000003% chance of being attacked by a bear each year. Want a really scary fact? In 2015, 1.6 of every 1,000 people in America were raped or sexually assaulted. So let’s give the bears a break and worry about the real issues we all face in society.

7- Why?

I honestly don’t know what people are hoping to gain from this questions. Why do people do anything? For many women, getting out in nature is a deeply personal, sacred thing. A better question is “tell me what you love about backpacking.” But if you’re just going to ask “why” with mouth agape, don’t be surprised if the lady you’re asking says “why not?” and walks away.

And if you want to know more about our hiking experiences ask us about our favorite trails and why, what is the best season to get out in, or perhaps when we first realized how delightful and challenging and freeing exploring our wild places can be.

I’m not here to put a stop to you asking questions, every outdoors person I know would love the opportunity to talk more about their passion for the outdoors. What we’re all getting sick of is people trying to impose their own worries and misunderstandings on us instead of trying for understanding.

I’m In Love with Women’s-Only Spaces and I Don’t Give a Fuck if you Think That’s Sexist

If you create a women’s-only space, you’re going to get blowback.

Typically this comes in the form of a bruised male ego bleating wildly that they don’t think it’s fair to have women’s only spaces. And what would happen if they made a men’s only space? And that clearly #NotAllMen (insert collective female eye roll here) are like that.

Look, brotato, I’m going to stop you right there because frankly, you’ve already missed the point.

The point of single-gender spaces is not to hurt your feelings. It’s not even about you, which, I know is probably somewhat of a shock, so I’ll say it again: It’s not about you.

These spaces are about women.

These spaces whether online, physical, or emotional offer women a chance to be singularly themselves, without the fear of external judgement, baseless derision, or blatant dismissal. They offer a chance to start a question with “I hope I’m not the only one” and have an outpouring of people tell you, “no, you’re not alone, we hear you!” As a woman who has spent her life working and recreating in male dominated spaces, let me tell you that the first time I posted one of these “not alone” questions the compassionate replies I received almost brought me to tears. It feels insane that we live in a world where I even need to write this out but: it’s really nice to have people treat you with politeful respect.

Note, I chose those last two words exceedingly carefully. While I have been part of women’s groups that have been overwhelmingly kind, thoughtfully funny, and endearingly open I believe these are traits that can be present in almost any group setting. However, I believe it’s politeful respect that sets women’s only spaces apart from the general bedlam.

Women’s only spaces aren’t an eternal love-fest of kumbaya singing, ponytail braiding bliss where we all have a collective pillow fight at the end of the night and then drink wine and cry over “Love Actually.” Women fight with each other, we represent a variety of opinions and cultures and sometimes live on opposite sides of seemingly vast political divides. And yet, we are able to discuss these things with polite respect because we view each other as full complete humans.

In a world where the normal is a white,  western, able bodied, cisgender male, everything else is an other. And frankly, I’m fucking sick of participating in groups where I’m viewed as ‘less than’ purely on the basis of my lady bits.

It’s freeing to talk openly about bleeding through your pants while on your period, complain about getting catcalled on a run again, ask for advice from people who know what you’re going through and above all not having to worry about strangers judging you.  It makes my heart sing to have a question met with an enthusiastic desire to help, instead of a domineering need to prove that you don’t belong here; as I’ve been subject and witness to in numerous mixed-gender groups.

I am openly, unforgivingly in love with women’s only groups. I love them! For the simple reason that in the exclusive presence of women I am treated like the person that I am instead of the gender stereotype I fall under.

 

JMT Day 18 – It’s Like Euro Disney

Sunrise Campground to Yosemite Valley/The End

This is it. I think as I tear down camp this morning. We’re trying to get up and out early, the packing made all the easier by the fact that we’re both almost out of food, and by this point on the trail everything has it’s own home inside my backpack.

Today we’ll climb a mere 1,200 feet up to a small pass before we drop 6,000 feet down into the heart of Yosemite Valley. For the first time in nearly three weeks I think about Keith’s car parked and left unattended in an overflow lot. Boy, I really hope it’s still there.

For the first half of the day we’re the only two hikers on the trail. Switchbacking down, steeply, unrelentingly, through the trees still chilly in the early morning before the sun has warmed their branches. Just before Half Dome we hike through a burn from two years before which has transformed this once lush tree-filled valley into an other worldly grey moon scape, the land dotted with the blackened skeletons of roasted trees, as the sun sears down from on high.

Rounding the corner at the base of Half Dome and there they are! The tourists whom I’d known we’d encounter at some point today. We cruise on past the turn off to Yosemite’s most iconic rock formation, our only direction today is down. Each time we stop to let uphill traffic pass us they ask how the summit of Half Dome was. At first we answer truthfully: didn’t climb it, hiking the JMT, 18 days, yeah long, views are probably a little smokey, it’s a good challenge, yep climbed it previously. This conversation is unsatisfying for the question asker, and belabored for us and after a time we revert to the tried and true method of lying. We tell each passing tourist who asks “how was it?” with “amazing, but a little smokey” at which point they smile and move on and we are freed from the longer conversation that comes with being totally honest. Plus, we’re not being totally dishonest, the views from the top of Half Dome are amazing, and it doesn’t take a genius to presume that the smoke that has filled the entire valley will be present up there too.

The air warms around us as we pass into lower climes. Nobody passes us going downhill, we have strong hiker legs now and the complete disregard for personal comfort that comes with thru hiking.  Waves and waves of tourists pass us on the uphill though, and it doesn’t take long to notice the conspicuous lack of American accents. It feels like all of western Europe decided to vacation in Yosemite this year.

Down. Forever hiking down hill, when we turn onto the Mist Trail and we’re so close but the traffic jam of day hikers is worse here than ever. I turn off the part of my brain that is keeping time and just allow myself to make forward progress when I can, allowing others to pass where I must. A Russian man presses into the back of me as I wait for a scared woman to descend the slippery steps. Mist swirls around us, water thundering as it flies into space and disappears.  “Come on, come on, come on” I hear him mutter impatiently, as though we’d all decided to hold him up intentionally. Finally he skips around us on a sketchy side trail and is out of sight until we pass him 10 minutes later deeply engrossed in the task of taking a selfie with Vernal Falls.

And then, as suddenly as falling asleep we’re down onto pavement. Bodies, cars, screaming children swirl around, all oblivious to our personal victory.

Should I be feeling something more than this? I think to myself as we make our way back to the car. Am I supposed to cry, be overwhelmed with the magnitude of our accomplishment? But then again, it’s only backpacking, and while I feel proud, happy, grateful, anything beyond that is a dishonest emotional balm, applied in hindsight to give gravity to a situation, writing the story in reverse. I text my family, my friends, “we’ve done it!” Then I turn to look at the thousands of people around me, each on their own paths, as oblivious to our accomplishment as we are to theirs.

Back at the car we let the AC rush over us, the glass blocking out the sounds of the valley, so pressing and foreign after weeks in the mountains (Keith’s car wasn’t stolen, how polite) Then, giddy with delight of forward movement without physical exertion we drive to the showers. Inside I scrub myself twice over until the water stops running brown and I’m transformed from a thru hiker into just another Yosemite tourist.

I sit in the dappled shade of a bench while I wait for Keith and stare at the obese squirrel chattering at my feet, eager for food I will not give it.

Our time on the trail was wonderful, but it wasn’t magically transformative in the way you hear written about in books that are made into movies staring Reese Witherspoon. Our time on the JMT was bigger though, emotionally and physically immense in a way that pushes away everything else outside of the dirt path that is your home. However temporary that home may be.

Keith emerges squeaky clean and pink and we walk to get ice cream. Tomorrow we’ll start the drive home, merging back into our regular lives, our real lives, at least for now.

One for the ages, folks.

JMT Day 17 – Nice Crocks Ya Got There

Random Flat Spot Near Tuolumne Meadows to Sunrise Campground

Over breakfast the conversation turns to mileage and days and time. We’re already ahead of schedule but with the abundant smoke from nearby wild fires filling the valley we make the call to condense the last three days of hiking into two.

The bag that holds our cooking supplies also fits on my head like a hat. Also I’m being a pirate I suppose.

The morning starts with a relaxing stroll towards the Tuolumne Valley store where there will be fresh food and picnic tables to eat on instead of just sitting in the dirt like we’ve grown so accustomed to. We pass dozens of hikers this morning. Clean, sweet smelling day hikers waft by us. SoBo JMT hikers, excited, just a few days into their trip bounce by, trekking poles merrily stabbing the ground, packs loaded with days of food. The skies above curdle and threaten rain. Clear and the sun makes a valiant attempt to shine through. Round and around this goes.

Mmm flat. The trail of course, not the hiker booty.

Suddenly we’re walking through a massive campground, children shrieking as they streak past us. Bleary eyed tourists with their coffee mugs in hand stare unabashedly as we walk past. Quick quick quick. There is food ahead of us, and these hoards of tourists are less interesting to us by far.

We lunch at Tuolumne Meadows cafe and while Keith gets us ice cream I watch a Japanese tourist encourage her little girl to throw bread to a bird near the garbage cans. At this point, I’m so bored by the blatant disregard for our wild spaces, the flippant air taken by frontcountry and backcountry travelers alike that I barely find this annoying any more. Plus it’s not like I speak Japanese, so I stay silent and soon the woman and her daughter climb into their shiny rental car and disappear from my life forever. The bird they were feeding gives me a dully inquisitive look and when I do not feed it, hops away to beg from someone more lenient than I.

When at last there is nothing else to eat or entertain us at Tuolumne we get back on the trail. The relaxed hiking of Yosemite is like a balm on my tired body and I ride my legs as they carry me forward toward the end. I find I cannot feel terribly sad about the terminus of our thru hike approaching, as this whole trip has felt closer to the beginning of something, rather than the end.

In the afternoon we climb towards Cathedral lake, passing fellow JMT NoBo’s along the way, 10 or so in all. Passing fellow thru hikers stokes my ego every time, a little balloon swelling inside my chest. Along this climb we pass a man hiking in one crock and one hiking boot, a woman in socks and flip flops mincing up the trail on ruined feet. Something between pity, admiration, and passive nothingness at the struggling of these aimless strangers. Grateful, under it all, for my able body, intact toenails, unblistered feet, calloused by years of climbing hiking running and everything else.

Look at these dope fucking clouds yo!

We’re in camp by 5:30pm set up amongst the torn down canvas cabins of a high sierra camp which never had the chance to open this year, due to the snow. Our neighbors are a group of four brightly enthusiastic women who are section hiking the JMT from Yosemite Valley to Red’s Meadow, drinking and fraternizing the whole way there. They flirt openly with a group of young guys who invite them over to their fire for the evening. I’m half envious of their breezy sociability – a skill I fear I’ve never mastered – and half grateful when the campground falls silent aside from their ringing tinkering laughter that sidles into my ears, the too loud noises of inebriation.

Tomorrow this whole trip will come to a resounding end. It’s hard to parse out my emotions, but my body deeply wants to rest.

In the gloaming light over our little pots of food (potato soup, I think) I turn to Keith and ask “what if we just kept walking and didn’t stop?” To which he replies “we could.”

JMT Day 16 – The Lady Nod

Thousand Islands Lake to Random Camp Near Tuolomne Meadows

I wake feeling like absolute garbage, the sun pouring into the tent. The morning has come too early and I dread pulling myself from my warm cocoon of down and crinkly sleeping pad. But wait, no, not the sun. The brightest moon I’ve ever seen, filling the valley with it’s piercing blue light. I snatch up my phone; oh sweet baby cheeses it’s 2:30am! I pull my hat down over my eyes and crinkle into my quilt. I sleep the sleep of those who know they don’t have to get up for a few more precious hours.

When I wake again it’s actually morning and it’s already 7:45. Oops. Keith appears to have been awake for some time and has been kind enough to while away the morning hours on his phone while I snoozed on. With the knowledge that we have a relatively easy day on the trail we spend the morning attempting to dress up our breakfast eggs.

My introduction to Mountain House Breakfast Hash was on my first ever solo backpacking trip and it was soooo good that it immediately claimed a spot on my top three backpacking breakfasts list. Now, 2 years later, and 6 days of this stuff on the JMT and Keith and I can barely look at it. Luckily, we’re armed with cheese, sausage, and cheetos – all gifts from our over-packed friend back in Red’s Meadow. With some effort and patience (entirely on Keith’s part) we manage to turn our sad little breakfast around. While we eat we watch hikers stream out from around the lake, at least 50 people merge onto the trail heading north or south. Who are all these people? It’s so easy to imagine we’re out here on this unique adventure, but really we’re just part of the conga line.

Today we’ll climb 2,600 feet up towards Island and Donahue Passes and enter our third and last national park: Yosemite.

As we climb through the splotchy afternoon rain, and later crossing a creek going in the opposite direction of I share a smile and a nod to several female hikers and I realize there is some deeper connection there, a phenomenon that has connected all of the smiles and nods I’ve shard with women on this trail, an intimacy shared across time and space, visible for the briefest of moments: The Lady Nod.

The Lady Nod says: hey girl, I see you. And: it’s ok, you’re doing it. And: more importantly: you’re stronger than you know. Because any woman who has spent time in the outdoors knows that they’re a unique breed, fighting against the tide of white, male, able-bodied ego that is prevalent in both outdoor media and on the trails themselves. From online social forums where posts from women are met with derision and dismissal, to gear that isn’t fit or made for our bodies and where ‘unisex’ is about as close as it gets, to the countless outdoor media brands that splash their covers with white thin male faces, men who concur and own nature as though it was something to be claimed by birthright.

The Lady Nod acknowledges all of this and more. It is the soft, unspoken agreement of sisterhood mixed with the thrill of seeing yourself represented in these wild places. Even if it is only for the briefest flash of time, as you pass each other on the trail, smile, go your own way.

Evening finds us descending through the trees towards the flat expanse of Tuolomne Meadows, the river meandering and broad as it cut’s a wandering channel through the tall grass.

The smoke fills the valley, permeating deep into the trees, creeping up towards us. A silent, luminous pall – we walk right into it, and stop soon after. The smoke is too unpleasant to walk through.

5:30pm and we’re calling it a day. 7pm and we’re in our tent. What to do. What to do? We’ve reached an impasse where physical adaptation lags behind mental motivation. Meaning, we haven’t yet grown our hiker legs yet, but we’d rather be hiking that sitting in camp. Meaning, truly, we’re tired all the time.

JMT Day 15 – Goodbye Old Friends

Red’s Meadow to Thousand Islands Lake

We’re up at 6:30am, which isn’t early by hiker standards – or even my normal standards – but I feel like I’m finally starting to mellow to the fact that we’re just not in that big of a rush. We emerge from our tent to find the backpackers campground is buzzing with activity. Everyone seems to know each other and I feel a little like an outsider. Are we just terrible at making friends?

But no, the majority of our compatriots are hiking 8 miles down to Rosalee lake, while we’ll be knocking out 15 today.  They’ve been hiking 6-10 miles a day and we’re just now passing them. People comment that we’re moving “light and fast” or “going really far” and I can never discern from their tone if they’re impressed or judgmental, or simply feel the need to comment as a means to validate their own pace.

We make and eat breakfast, and rummage through the hiker box filled with miscellaneous dried items vacuum sealed into plastic bags. Mmm mm sketchy food! I score some candy bars and oatmeal from a SoBo hiker who so massively over-estimated his food needs that he’s giving away most of his resupply box. Keith supplements his dwindling Snickers stash “two a day until the end of the trail!” he gleefully proclaims. We say farewell to Phil and then finally finally we’re on the trail by 8am, hiking out past Devil’s Post Pile.

Despite all the calories we ate yesterday Keith and I are both dragging ourselves up the trail today, grateful for the fact that it’s cool and overcast, both listening to podcasts to distract from the tiredness and when we stop for a break I take on the roll of enthusiastic cheer leader – when you’re a hiking party of two only one person at a time is allowed to be in a funk or else you never get anywhere.

But get somewhere we must and so we move on towards our second snack break of the day. After all, backpacking is just walking through the mountains with snacks.

At the bottom of a steep, tightly switch backed descent we stop at a glittering blue lake and watch a bird snatch a fish right out of the water and fly off overhead. The fish still wriggling in the birds talons. “Oh sibling of Trevor” I think “you are certainly about to become lunch.”

Making our way along the edge of the lake after our snack I stumble, whack my trekking pole on a tree and it breaks. I then proceed to totally lose it in a really unflattering way. I cry. No, I ugly cry and hard. Succumbing to a tidal wave of emotions, made all the worse for the fact that I can’t really figure out why I’m so upset. While I ugly cry Keith kicks into Engineering Problem Solver Mode (his favorite mode, I think) and begins to splint my broken pole with tent stakes and athletic tape. He’s so sweet and patient during the whole operation and I’m still unable to control myself. I like to think I’m not a materialistic person, I’ve been known to clean out my closet to the point where I have almost nothing to wear, and would be perfectly happy to don the same outfit every day were it socially acceptable. And yet, breaking my trekking pole feels like letting down a close friend. A friend whose been on countless exciting adventures with me. A friend who Keith helped me to pick out because he knew they’d help tremendously with my hiking. And now my poor friend is broken, and I’ll simply have to throw them in the garbage and replace them after the trip. And for whatever reason this breaks my heart.

RIP pole friends.

I’m morose for the next hour as we hike along this gorgeous lake, on soft downy dirt trail, covered by the good good trees so strong and silent above us. All afternoon we climb past lakes, with the sun playing hide and seek behind high clouds but never fully committing to showing it’s face.

Towards the top of the climb we meet an angry woman who demands that we tell her what the climb up to Rosalee Lake is like. When we tell her that the climb will be steep and full of switch backs she tells us we’re wrong and then stands in the middle of the trail so we can’t go around her. Neither of us know what this woman wants. Though it seems to be perfectly clear that she doesn’t want to yield right of way to us, the uphill hikers. Finally, unable to figure out anything else to tell her we edge around her on the trail with a half hearted “have a good hike.” This too, seems to offend her, and recognizing a lost cause Keith and I push on and out of sight.

The afternoon simply crushes me and the insane vistas, lakes nestled impossibly among granite monoliths, grey skies muffling the sounds of the world outside our little dirt path that will take us north, all of this is somewhat lost on me. When we finally roll into camp I’m almost too tired to eat.

We heap honey BBQ Fritos (which are gods gift to thru hikers btw) onto our dinner soup and this somewhat revives me. The sunset burning pink above us, reflected and refracted like stained glass in the water below us. Second best of the trip.

By 8pm we’re in our tent and it’s lights out. I’m so deeply tired.

JMT Day 14 – We. Are. Hikertrash!

Ivabell Hot Springs to Red’s Meadow

Today is day 14, two full weeks. Does this mean we’re officially dirt bags? Officially hikertrash? Gosh I hope so.

We wake up to our first alarm of the trail. We know the climb to Red’s will be long, hot, and exposed, and we want to get on the trail as soon as possible. Plus, rumor has it that there are milkshakes at Red’s Meadow, and I would have woken up at 2am if you could promise me a milkshake. I would shank a donkey for a milkshake.

Today waking up to an alarm buys us another treat – more hot spring time. We venture to the closest spring and have it all to our selves this morning. I can feel my muscles unwinding in the hot water, my tendons lengthening. I’ve been trying to fight the onset of tendonitis in my calves and feet with nightly massages and it’s only partially working.

We breakfast on the old standby: crushed cheetos (#sponsoredbycheetos – I wish) and mountain house breakfast skillet. The food I’ve eaten on this trip could best be described and horrifying in it’s nutritional shortcomings. That and I’m really getting sick of these fucking eggs. But. Nothing to be done!

The first four miles of the trail descend along the creek to a bridge. More evidence of avalanche activity – root balls exposed, trees ripped from their homes and thrust into the trail. At the creek we tank up on water, chug some brondo (it’s what the body craves) and begin the climb. Getting out of the valley is easy. Slogging along six more miles through sand and ripe horse shit is exhausting. We’re pushing hard to Red’s. Not stopping for snacks, or water.

Along the way we pass two big groups and maybe three to four additional pairs of hikers. All are headed down to Ivabell Hot Springs. All are surprised when we tell them their the newest member in a disconnected conga line. Bless. We all think we’re so unique.

Suddenly up on a ridge we can see the back of Mammoth Mountain and then everything stops. We have LTE! this small precious connection to the outside world. Keith and I huddle and hard stare at our phones for 15 minutes. I send a message to my family just some light details and that we’re still alive and I’m thrilled that I get a text back quickly from my mom. It’s funny, we’re not really the type of family to call each other every day, sometimes not even every week but suddenly I miss them all terribly and start to cry a little while I group text them updates. Then quick as it came, we’re out of service again and we move on.

See? This photo was taken at like 10am, but it looks like golden hour. Fire are magic/terrible.

With less than a mile to go to Red’s Meadow we are blasted by tourist. They all smell amazing; clean like laundry and soft indoors things. I knew I’d smell on the trail, it’s hardly shocking when you consider we exercise all day, don’t bathe, and then sleep on the dirt. What I didn’t consider is that your nose never adjusts to your own oder. I know I smell as intensely as I know that these bright, scrubbed people don’t smell and I allow myself to linger here among the wafting scent of cleanliness.

Finally we’re at Red’s Meadow with the crowds and the food. Then, from nowhere it’s Phil! Phil is here! We thought he’d be a day behind us and now he’s here, what sorcery. We eat burgers and potato salad together and Phil tells us he’s done with the trail. We try earnestly to persuade him otherwise, create alternate plans that would give him lower milage days, invite him to hike out with us.

But in the end his heart isn’t in it, he misses home, his girlfriend. He says repeatedly that he didn’t know this hike would be so hard. “I just can’t handle another pass” he says. In the end he makes plans to get off the trail the following day. Once he’s decided I try to make him feel good about his choice. Thru hiking isn’t for everyone, and that’s ok.

After lunch Phil goes off to shower and call his girlfriend while Keith and I try to go nap – but mostly I end up petting a dog that’s tied up near by. I try and feel happy for Phil, he looks relieved to know he’s done. But I can’t really imagine making the same choice. Maybe because I (and by extension I assume Keith) knew this was going to be hard much if not most of the time. I end up on the opposite side of the spectrum from Phil. I love thru hiking. I’ve accepted that there will be 3,000 foot climbs that I’m not going to want to do, and that thru hiking isn’t some blissed out life, it’s more like a master class in accepting discomfort and letting go of attachment and anticipation.

Keith in his “worlds lightest” UL backpacking hammock. I keep telling him his trail name should be DIY, so far that hasn’t stuck.

We spend the afternoon relaxing, waiting for our stomachs to be hungry for food again. The tourists look angry as they wait in a long line for the shuttle that will take them back to Mammoth and their air conditioned hotel rooms. Is everybody this stressed out on vacation? A guy in army boots complains to his bro about his quads seizing up after a two mile hike, babies cry, girlfriends scowl, and uppity soccer dads give anyone who even thinks about cutting the bus line the stink eye. I try not to feel superior to these people and fail.

In the end we opt not to hike out tonight, and instead grab some adult beverages to supplement our burgers and milkshakes (!) and hang out with the dirtbags in the hiker campsite. Around the fire we talk about equestrians on the trail. And I’m surprised to find so many people who echo my feelings about equestrians on the trail. In short: We hate that they bring their big, stupid, non-native animals into the backcountry where they shit and piss on everything. We hate the the riders have no responsibility to pick up after their animals. And we hate that they look down their animals noses at us as we give them the right of way and they barely say thank you. If I could wave a magic wand and ban pack animals from the high sierras I would. Or at least force them to clean up after their big dumb pets like everybody else has to.

People trickle off to their tents in ones and in pairs. I’m in no rush, and I spend the evening chatting with a guy heading SoBo who has packed such an insane abundance of food that it’s comical. It’s barely past hiker midnight when the party breaks up. I snuggle down in my perfectly fluffy quilt, ear plugs in. Finally, sleep.

 

JMT Day 13 – Everything is a Sunset (aka Fire)

Chief Lake to Ivabell Hot Springs

We wake late today. Partially due to not getting enough sleep while partying at VVR, and partially because we know that we have a pretty mellow day ahead of us. We’ll be hopping on the Fish Creek trail, an alternate that will take us to Ivabell Hot Springs where we plan to while away the afternoon soaking in the hot waters there.

After two miles on the JMT we merge onto the Fish Creek Trail which we’ll follow along the creek of the same name, up and over a small ridge, and down to the hot springs. We’re trying to rush today, but the heat is crushing us and we don’t move as quickly as we like. Still by 1pm we’re high on a ridge looking down into the hot springs. We can spot small collections of tents in the trees.

The ideal time to visit a hot spring in Southern California is not labor day weekend when droves of clued in, cool kids from LA and SF pour into the mountains  and their secret spots that, like, nobody knows about. Except everybody knows. Nothing to be done. By this point in the hike our schedule has shifted enough that the only way to avoid the inevitable crowds at the hot springs would be to not go at all. That’s clearly not an option for Keith, so here we are.

We drop down a series of tight switchbacks, through more evidence of the avalanches that ripped through these mountain valleys taking out trees the size of telephone poles in the process.

In camp, it’s oppressively hot. And all we can do is chase little patches of shade until the sun stops harassing us. We haven’t been this low in elevation since we started on the trail and now it’s apparent that the heat from the central valley is encroaching into the higher elevations.

At 6pm we hit the fulcrum of hunger and heat aversion and the temptation of food spurns us out of our respective shaded hiding places. Tonight is spaghetti and meat sauce and it’s amazing. I’m realizing that hiker hunger is starting to hit me, and I’m hungry much of the day. While I’m actively eating I start to think about what I want to buy in Red’s Meadow. Chips for sure, cheese, salami. Just nothing sweet. I didn’t think it was possible to get sick of chocolate, but that’s another thing I can add to the “Stuff Kara is Wrong About” list.

During dinner we chat with a girl who’s part of a large group from San Francisco up for the long weekend. She’s a transplant to Cali – just like everyone – by way of Oregon and Vermont. We talk thru hiking and the JMT. Keith and I share the story of a hiker we’ve only heard lore of called 100 Pounds.

From stories told round the camp fire we’ve learned that 100 Pounds is a SoBo PCT hiker who is training to hike the single year triple crown in 2018 (that is to complete the AT, PCT, and CDT in one year, that’s like 8,000 miles of hiking, it’s crazy town banana pants, but people do it). Apparently this cat got it in his head that the best way to do that would be to carry weeks worth of food at a time, instead of just 3-8 days like most hikers do, and then save time by rarely going into town. This is resoundingly the opposite of what nearly everyone else does. It’s amazing how some people can take all the collective knowledge of those who have come before and then decide to do something illogically backwards. God speed 100 Pounds, you’re gonna need it.

Once the sun sets we hike up the ridge into the gloaming light and settle in a hot spring, the water is perfect for just sitting, hours and days could pass sitting here.

Another hiker shows up and we have the repeat conversation that comes with meeting people who aren’t thru hikers. A girl asks if we’re sad to be almost done – six days left to be precise. I’m struck in the moment that I hadn’t considered this notion, to be sad the end of our trip is approaching. Intellectually I know we’re on the home stretch but mentally I feel like I could stay out here forever.

We watch the sun set over the valley, through the smoke. There is no golden hour during fire season, the smoke suspended in the air leads to a permanent feeling of the sun almost setting. The stars pop out, just a few, their siblings muted behind the smoke and bats swoop over the water, catching bugs, pulling airborne acrobatics. Tee hee actrobatics.

JMT Day 12 – I Don’t Know What I’m Talking About, but You’re Definitely Wrong

VVR to Chief Lake

The campground is up and stirring around us when we wake, more hikers, more campers, more people pouring into the campground in anticipation for the long weekend. We head in opposition to the rising crowd and make moves to catch the 10am shuttle.
 
At breakfast we meet up with Phil – another NoBo JMTer who is looking for hiking buddies now that his friend is heading home. We tell him he can join us, to catch up on the trail. He seems eager and repeatedly confirms our plan to meet at Red’s Meadow in two days. He then also decided to catch a later ferry so he can hang out with some other campers at VVR, so who knows if we’ll be seeing him again.
Eating breakfast outside, waiting for the ferry to come we sit among a group of hikers decked out in REI safari gear comparing notes from paper guidebooks. The men sit around and begin proclaiming – which is what passes for conversation apparently. One man proclaims that Selden Pass is the hardest of the whole trip. Another proclaims that anyone who hiked the PCT this year was an idiot. Anyone who hikes alone has a death wish. On and on it goes. A clean tourist from San Francisco comes by and asks me if I ever see any bears while hiking. Before I can say that I’ve seen five bears this year alone a big shaggy man proclaims that you never see bears in the sierras any more. Mild mannered Keith nods along in apathetic non-agreement, I tune out of the conversation and read.
When the ferry arrives – a covered pontoon boat that’s been subject to enthusiastic but poorly conceived repair jobs – the boat captain shouts unintelligibly at us and we follow him down to the ramp, board, and set off. No safely briefings here. Although you hardly need to be told that falling into a lake with a full backpack isn’t a great way to start you day. The captain is a surly, young man, wearing army issue boots, camo pants, and the civilian approximation of a high and tight cut. I cannot tell if he’s actually served, or if he’s simply one of the legions of young men who have cultivated a romantic ideology of the armed forces and donned an outfit to match. He puts in headphones as soon as we’re in the boat and then does his best to pretend we’re not here.
The ferry ride takes 30 minutes and then we’re all stumbling onto an empty sand beach and it’s time to hike.
REI Safari and Co head out down the trail while Keith and I putz around, tighten our straps, doing a thousand little backpack adjustments. I for one, would like to give the proclaimers as wide a birth as possible.
 
Soon enough we’re hiking. Sooner than I would have liked we’re in a trail train behind the REI White Dudes Who Know Everything Posse. Their pace is relaxed and I’m content to move slowly while I adjust to the weight of 8 days of food I’m carrying. Eventually they stop to let us pass, looking put out, like they had somehow done us a favor for which they should be thanked. We don’t thank them, we just hike on, having been given a great – though unintentional gift – the chance to freely bash these new people without any risk of retribution. It’s a lovely way to spend the steep climb up Silver Pass.
The approaching weekend is apparent on the trail too. A young family with a skittish dog who wants to be my friend so long as I’m actively eating beef jerky. Young couples from the city with their cotton hoodies and over-filled backpacks. Packs of young men hammering down the trail, oblivious to the world, with impotent boom boxes bleating bad reggae out to the trees.
 
Halfway through the day we decide to wait out the heat lounging in the shade near a creek and Keith finally get’s the external validation of hikers jealously eyeing his hammock.
When we finally move on its mid-afternoon, covering the last five miles up and over the pass, and down to Chief Lake.
Look how nice Keith poses when I take his picture.
Conversely, what am I doing with my face?
Our home for the night is a secluded little spot on the far side of the lake, nestled between the waters of Chief Lake and the granite cliffs behind it. The water here is so blue and so shockingly clear at the same time. How does that work? Below us the valley is settled in a thin patina of smoke, some of the first evidence we’ve seen of the wildfires burning just to the north of us.